2023 Chambertin Clos de Beze
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Tasting Notes
This comes from a 0.33-hectare parcel with vines averaging 50-plus years in age. Chambertin Clos de Bèze faces east, on higher ground than the Chambertin, always produces a riper, richer style of wine. Muscular and serious, dark red fruit mingles with liquorice on the nose. This gorgeous Grand Cru has firm but vibrant tannins, don’t except anything less than a full-bodied wine here, with power and grace on the long, suave finish. This is a great wine that will require a decade of cellaring before you can even think about enjoying it.
Critic Scores
Average Score
Neal Martin, Vinous
Allen Meadows, Burghound
More reviews and scores
The 2023 Chambertin Clos-de-Beze Grand Cru has an expressive bouquet with a mixture of red and black fruit, bergamot and rose petal aramas. It's flattering but just needs a little more complexity considering the vineyard. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, dark berry fruit laced with tea leaves and a hint of marmalade toward the finish. It's not bad, although it is overshadowed by the Mary Chambertin
Once again there is subtle but still easily discernible wood influence surrounding the overtly spicy aromas that include ripe red berries and a plethora of spice elements. The vibrant and solidly concentrated medium weight flavors exhibit impressive power on the suave-to-the-point of opulent mouthfeel, all wrapped in a sappy and long if slightly warm finish where the wood resurfaces. This is very good but it is stylistically different from the rest of the wines in the range. Drink 2035+
The 2023 Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru saw rigorous sorting by hand to remove any dehydrated or desiccated berries, and the resulting wine shows excellent promise, bursting with aromas of dark cherries and berries mingled with exotic spices, incense and petals. Full-bodied, ample and layered, it's plush and textural, with velvety tannins and an expansive finish. By the time of the 2023 vintage, the new Rebourseau winery was fully complete, so winemaker Bastien Giraud (who spent several years as second-in-command chez Faiveley) was able to receive the abundant crop in luxurious new facilities. Harvest began on September 11, and the crop was mostly destemmed, with Giraud pursuing a light touch with extraction. When I visited, the wines had recently been racked to tank, so some may have been a little discombobulated; but everything showed well, particularly the Perrières, Mazis-Chambertin and Clos de Bèze, which exhibited a touch more density than the rest of the range. Of course, bringing viticulture up to an élite level may take longer than constructing a new winery; but it's clear that no efforts or expense are being spared to elevate this estate to the place in the Burgundian firmament that its wonderful palette of terroirs deserves.
About the producer
Based in Gevrey-Chambertin, this domaine has a long history and impressive vineyards (with over five hectares of Grand Cru), but has long been considered an under-performer. Today, however, the Bouygues brothers (of Montrose and Clos Rougeard) have taken ownership and change is afoot.