2023 Gevrey-Chambertin La Brunelle
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Tasting Notes
From 2.78 hectares of vines that average over 30 years in age, this parcel is located just behind Domaine Rebourseau’s beautifully restored cuverie – and a great introduction to this estate under the Bouygues’ ownership. At the bottom of the village of Gevrey-Chambertin, La Brunelle comes from one block, east to west, giving a full aspect of the terroir here. The nose is fragrant, floral and juicy. Entirely destemmed, this village wine delivers instant pleasure on the palate, with fine and velvety tannins, superb acidity and delicious red fruit extract on the mid-palate. The finish is long and precise, the 30% new oak totally integrated. This will reward a couple of years in the cellar before it can be fully enjoyed.
Critic Scores
Average Score
Neal Martin, Vinous
Allen Meadows, Burghound
More reviews and scores
The 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin La Brunelle hails from the 2.78 hectare parcel behind the maison (almost a monopole-Roty farms a small plot). Completely destemmed, this has a floral bouquet with wilted rose petals infusing the red fruit. The polate is medium-bodied, fresh and vibrant with good vigor. This has fine tannins, a fleshy finish and a silky texture with ample depth. It is very seductive.
Outstanding - A slightly riper nose features notes of plum, dark currant and more evident sauvage nuances. The delicious and vibrant flavors aren't quite as dense but they're finer still with a lilting mouthfeel that carries over to the mildly austere, balanced and focused finale. This is also a very good Gevrey villages. Drink 2029+
The 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin La Brunelle was showing nicely, revealing notes of cherries, cassis and licorice followed by a medium to full-bodied, supple and fleshy palate that's soft and giving. This will show well on release. By the time of the 2023 vintage, the new Rebourseau winery was fully complete, so winemaker Bastien Giraud (who spent several years as second-in-command chez Faiveley) was able to receive the abundant crop in luxurious new facilities. Harvest began on September 11, and the crop was mostly destemmed, with Giraud pursuing a light touch with extraction. When I visited, the wines had recently been racked to tank, so some may have been a little discombobulated; but everything showed well, particularly the Perrières, Mazis-Chambertin and Clos de Bèze, which exhibited a touch more density than the rest of the range. Of course, bringing viticulture up to an élite level may take longer than constructing a new winery; but it's clear that no efforts or expense are being spared to elevate this estate to the place in the Burgundian firmament that its wonderful palette of terroirs deserves.
About the producer
Based in Gevrey-Chambertin, this domaine has a long history and impressive vineyards (with over five hectares of Grand Cru), but has long been considered an under-performer. Today, however, the Bouygues brothers (of Montrose and Clos Rougeard) have taken ownership and change is afoot.