2023 Latricieres Chambertin

The 2023 Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru has more presence and depth on the nose than the Charmes-Chambertin. Like last year's vintage, it contains 15% whole bunch. Its bouquet features well-defined red fruit, undergrowth and light loamy scents. The palate is fresh, vibrant and medium-bodied with a bright entry. This is quite spicy toward the finish, with impressive length. It's lovely.

The 2023 Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru is lovely, wafting from the glass with notes of sweet plums, orange zest, petals and exotic spices. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and sensual, with an ample core of fruit animated by lively acids and framed by melting tannins, it concludes with a precise, saline finish. This is another lovely set of wines from Pierre Duroché, emphasizing supple, sensual structures and expressive aromas. After the hailstorms of 2022, 2023 was less eventful, with warm weather punctuated by showers that alleviated any hydric stress. Harvest began on September 5, as usual with the Griotte-Chambertin. As readers may remember, Duroché has been experimenting with "tressage"—rolling vines' canopies instead of trimming them—in some parcels. In the cellar, new oak continues to make a minimal contribution, but the historic emphasis on Tonnellerie Cadus has diminished to avoid any one cooper defining the domaine style. Vinifications continue to be rather delicate, with comparatively short macerations and little in the way of pigéage. Fully renovated winery facilities, complete with a battery of made-to-measure stainless steel tanks, facilitate precision vinification, something that was a particular advantage in 2023.