1996 Louis Roederer Cristal Rose Vinotheque

Wafting from the glass with aromas of mandarin oil, warm bread and raspberries, mingled with notes of clear honey, blanched almonds and pastry cream, the 1996 Cristal Rosé Vinothèque is showing superbly. It's full-bodied, tensile and searingly chalky, but this concentrated and intense wine's racy spine of acidity is beautifully integrated. This was the first blend Lécaillon presided over as a Roederer employee—three years before he was appointed chef des caves in 1999—and it was clearly a harbinger of great things to come. Amazingly, the finished pH is fully 2.82, yet the wine is perfectly balanced.