2023 Griotte Chambertin
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Tasting Notes
Griotte-Chambertin is the jewel in Domaine des Chézeaux’s crown, with the largest holding of this small Grand Cru site – renowned for producing gloriously aromatic and elegant wines. Charles van Canneyt’s first vintage is seductive, with sweet spice and just the lightest touch of toast sitting alongside waves of supple red cherry fruit. The wine is bright – offering an instant intensity and fullness, plush and voluptuous, yet with effortless elegance. It’s tight at this nascent stage, but you can see how much more it has to offer, with a structure that deserves time. Smoky tones linger on the long finish. A superb début.
Critic Scores
Average Score
Neal Martin, Vinous
Allen Meadows, Burghound
More reviews and scores
Wafting from the glass with aromas of sweet, minty berries, orange zest, rose petals and spices, the 2023 Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru is medium to full-bodied, layered and textural, with a lively core of fruit, powdery tannins and a saline finish. Cool and charming, it's sensual, perfumed style will render it accessible young. The 2023 vintage is the first that Charles van Canneyt has produced at Domaine des Chézeaux, which he an his wife Anne-Sophie Gagey acquired recently. Sharecropping agreements with Ponsot, Berthaut and René Leclerc were concluded, so van Canneyt is now farming the parcels and making the wines. The winemaking approach is much the same as at Hudelot-Noëllat.
The 2023 Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru comes from 1.3 hectares of the climat-half its acreage. The bouquet is beautifully defined, with black cherry, blueberry and violet scents all blossoming in the glass. Fresh and sapid, the palate is medium-bodied with succulent, ripe tannins and a keen line of acidity. There is superb structure and grip on the finish. This will need time to reach its plateau.
Once again there is a certain restrained quality to the perfumed, airy and beautifully layered nose of black cherry liqueur, kirsch, spice and violet. The supersuper-sleek, intense and strikingly textured medium-bodied flavors possess more density and power while displaying outstanding length on the compact and decidedly austere finale that goes on and on. This is terrific but make no mistake, it’s a wine that’s going to require extended keeping. Drink from 2038.
About the producer
This Gevrey-Chambertin property was founded in 1982 but the vines were leased to other producers. As of 2021, that’s all changed, with Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat’s Charles van Canneyt and his wife Anne-Sophie having purchased the property. This is undoubtedly an address to watch.