2023 Gevrey Chambertin Estournelles St Jacques

This high-altitude parcel in the Combe Lavaux always produces one of the more ethereal, mineral wines in the range, and the 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Estournelles Saint-Jacques is no exception, exhibiting pretty aromas of cherries, rose petals and sweet red berries. It's medium to full-bodied, supple and succulent, with melting tannins, lively acids and a saline finish. This is another lovely set of wines from Pierre Duroché, emphasizing supple, sensual structures and expressive aromas. After the hailstorms of 2022, 2023 was less eventful, with warm weather punctuated by showers that alleviated any hydric stress. Harvest began on September 5, as usual with the Griotte-Chambertin. As readers may remember, Duroché has been experimenting with "tressage"—rolling vines' canopies instead of trimming them—in some parcels. In the cellar, new oak continues to make a minimal contribution, but the historic emphasis on Tonnellerie Cadus has diminished to avoid any one cooper defining the domaine style. Vinifications continue to be rather delicate, with comparatively short macerations and little in the way of pigéage. Fully renovated winery facilities, complete with a battery of made-to-measure stainless steel tanks, facilitate precision vinification, something that was a particular advantage in 2023.