2023 Clos des Lambrays

Domaine des Lambrays’s flagship Grand Cru is almost, but not quite, a monopole, with an ouvrée – less than 0.2 of the total 8.84 hectares – at the bottom of the clos belonging to Taupenot-Merme. The 2023 is subtle, speaking quietly at first, whispering its sweet fruit, earthiness, spicy intensity and floral lift. On the palate, the wine expands – a crescendo of power and concentration, spreading out across the palate and towards the long finish. There’s a rich creaminess here, before more fruit and then earthy minerality and glorious freshness, with plush, velvet tannins. A gorgeous wine.