2021 Schloss Johannisberger Goldlack Trocken
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Tasting Notes
Prepare yourself to meet the spirit of great mineral dry riesling. Gigantic dried peach and dried pear notes, but even more flinty character. A wealth of dried herbs, too. Immense concentration of stony minerality that washes over you like a great wave. Matured for two and a half years in 1,200-liter used oak cases, the last year in the deepest and oldest section of the cellar. Drink or hold.
Critic Scores
Average Score
James Suckling
Anne Krebiehl MW, Vinous
More reviews and scores
The 2021 Riesling Schloss Johannisberg Goldlack is Johannsiberg's wine positioned above the GG. Made in limited quantity, it spent 30 months in wood. The merest touch of beeswax appears initially, almost with a hint of speculoos biscuit spice on the nose. The palate is a marvel, absolutely fluid in texture and slender but with absolute concentration. this has density but no weight. Texturally, this is different from other Rieslings, calmer and quieter, but with no less intent or direction. On the contrary, it conquers quietly but completely. The malolactic fermentation delivers a mellow finish that is deceptive, since the final acidity in this dry wine still reached an exciting 8.2 g/L. (Bone-dry)
(Rheingau; 100% Riesling; 1200 bottles). This is rather different. A little more oxidative at least aromatically. Creamier too in texture. Raisins; grapefruit and its zest; quince; crab apple; a little gooseberry. Incredibly vertical, with all the lift of an interstellar rocket, intensely crunchy and fresh – like biting into a Granny Smith but to find an even more acidic fruit juice – quince perhaps. A hint of iodine too. In short, great complexity albeit in an as yet not entirely resolved form – this needs a certain patience. Pure; fine; refined; very linear. Impressive, if still very much in its infancy, and dancing on the limit in terms of its acidity – but that’s perhaps what I love about this the most.
