NV Jacques Selosse Substance (2023 Disgorgemnt)

Disgorged earlier this year, Selosse's latest NV Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Substance saw tirage in 2015 and, as usual, derives from a solera established in 1986. Unfurling in the glass with rich and complex aromas of dried fruits, orange zest, saffron, fenugreek, buttered toast and confit peach, it's full-bodied, ample and seamless, with a deep and layered core of fruit, racy acids and a long, resonant finish. As I've contended before, Substance is the cuvée that best exemplifies Selosse's contention (to paraphrase) that an oxidative élevage can purge a wine of the organic, leaving behind only the mineral—in this case, he argues, the imprint of two Avize lieux-dits, Les Chantereines and Les Marvillannes. For admirers of Selosse's wines, that makes it one of the most compelling bottlings in the portfolio, just as his detractors are likely to rank it as his most divisive.