2020 Clos des Lambrays
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Tasting Notes
Having the opportunity to taste five different plots separately, and then in the final blend of Clos des Lambrays, is an extraordinary experience and a masterclass in blending. Each distinct characteristic from the varying plots comes through effortlessly in the final blend, laying out the wonderous complexity of this special site. The floral, herbal, earthy, vegetal notes from the lower part of the slope provide a stunning, complex, perfumed nose which balances the richer red cherry fruit of La Plante vines beautifully, while there’s a mineral crunch to the finish from Cerisier (the lower left part of the slope). The delicate push and pull of the tannins, integrated with vibrant acidity, is wonderful. The wine is full of finesse but has no shortage of depth, with an amazing mid-palate roundness. This is hard to fault.
Critic Scores
Average Score
Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy
William Kelley, Wine Advocate
More reviews and scores
The 2020 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru is promising, unwinding in the glass with a dark and brooding bouquet of cassis, elderberries and plums mingled with notions of smoked duck, spices, bitter orange and rose petals. Full-bodied, deep and layered, it's rich and concentrated (reflecting derisory yields of only 15 hectoliters per hectare), with powdery tannins, lively acids and a long, resonant finish. With the 2020, we begin to approach the levels of intensity and texture found in the domaine's wines of yesteryear, and if this wine realizes all its promise, my score will look conservative.
Jacques Devauges keeps each portion of the Clos des Lambrays separate throughout the growing season, winemaking and maturation. The final assemblage of each part, however, is synergistically better than any of the separate sections, and there are elements of lovely bright fruit, impressive complexity and dense structure along with fresh, lively and youthful exuberance that all co-exist. A tour de force of winemaking that manages to express the profound nature of the Clos des Lambrays.
The 2020 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru comprises of 80% to 85% whole bunch this year. Since 2019, Jacques Devauges has utilised smaller tanks to vinify subplots separately and raised in several cooperages rather than just François Frères (60% new oak). It has a classically-styled bouquet, very well defined, very fresh, red berry fruit with touches of shucked oyster shell, light loamy aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with very pliant tannins, very fresh and full of tension. The mineralité clearly comes through on the finish that is far more precise than previous vintages, long and tender on the aftertaste. Cool, calm and collected, this is a riveting Clos des Lambrays.
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About the producer
Domaine des Lambrays is one of Morey-Saint-Denis’s most famous estates, its history closely tied to the Grand Cru from which it takes its name – Clos des Lambrays.