2018 Vosne Romanee Les Malconsorts

Its position bordering La Tache to the North, automatically qualifies it as an extraordinary Premier Cru. Indeed, the best Malconsorts share the distinctive elegant notes of rose petals, the saline minerality, the spicy aromatics and the sheer power and complexity of its revered neighbour's flagship monopole. Allen Meadows considers it “the biggest and most powerful of all the Vosne premier crus and often the most long-lived”. He muses however, “if it is possible that a Vosne premier cru can be underrated, then Les Malconsorts is it. How can a vineyard that abuts La Tache to the North and Nuits’ most gifted premier cru, Les Boudots, to the south possibly be underappreciated?” It was not always so, and historically it has even ranked in esteem above La Grande Rue and the Verroilles part of Richebourg – now Grand Crus of great standing. However, its glamour faded for many years until recently rising to renewed prominence when Dujac and de Montille bought parcels from the previous owner, Thomas Moillard. Cathiard and Hudelot-Noellat have also long been associated with producing some of the finest Malconsorts. Today, Clos Frantin is the biggest owner, holding 30% of the appellation since it bought its 1.75 ha plot in 1964. As can be seen in the map below, its plot borders four of its five neighbours: Cathiard, Lamarche, de Montille and Hudelot-Noellat, giving buyers access to this remarkable terroir at a fraction of their prices. With scores that match Lamarche in 2018, Clos Frantin’s 2018 Malconsorts, with its “persistence of a grand cru”, lives up to this fantastic terroir and is a truly outstanding buy in a vintage that rewards clued-up selection. In terms of shrewd buys, what better place to look than one of the best priced wines from what is perhaps the best situated Premier Cru in all of Burgundy? Rich and dark red fruit nose with powerful and vibrant tension. Strawberry notes with dried rose petals and surrounded by robust, structured and clean tannins on the palate. The finish is very well balanced with a great length and a saline minerality on the finish. It keeps on going for a few seconds afterwards, liberating some soft and delicious raspberry notes. This is a serious wine which lives up to its legendary terroir. It will only get better with age.