2017 Westhofener Kirchspiel Grosses Gewachs
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Tasting Notes
Bright lime and grapefruit are allied with a vivid impression of chalk suffusion, intimated on the nose and then featured on a silken palate. The sense of sheer extract-richness here is formidable. But whereas I tend to think of the mineral character promoted by Kirchspiel – especially in a vintage with high acidity – as conducive to severity and austerity, the texture and generous juiciness on display in this instance make for a Riesling that is infectiously approachable even at this early stage. Chalky and ashen notes lend intrigue while salinity serves for saliva-inducement on a gripping, vibrant, not to mention downright refreshing finish. (As usual, there was a small separately bottled batch of Kirchspiel that finished with higher residual sugar and which Keller marketed as "Riesling RR." Unfortunately, I did not get an opportunity to taste it.)
Critic Scores
Average Score
David Schildknecht, Vinous
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
A definite herbal nose in this vintage. Intensely mineral citrus at its foundation, with a touch of spice that seems to come from the minerality. Wow. This is absolutely stunning in its concentration but it is precise and incredibly pure, very very mineral but still with the elegance of Kirchspiel. There’s power but seemingly without effort, nothing brash or showy, it’s all in the most elegant style. Endlessly long. A fantastic combination of intensity and finesse. A slightly sour-citrus aftertaste – salty – that is perfectly in keeping with the whole. Hard to do this wine justice in a few words but the pedigree of site and winemaker are clear.
About the producer
Based in the Rheinhessen, Keller is one of the finest Riesling producers in the world, and has set the benchmark for German Pinot Noir.