2015 Graacher Himmelreich Spatlese

This is still quite reduced at first but already offers a gorgeous nose of dried herbs, spices, melon, almond (from reduction) and cassis. The wine reveals quite a playful side on the palate as its juicy fruits are wrapped into a mineral and smoky core of smoke. The wine is delicately ripe yet vibrant acidity brings freshness and liveliness to the long and mouth-watering finish. This is a superb Spätlese with even some upside potential. Oct 2016, www.moselfinewines.com, Drink: 2025-2045

Prum's 2015 Graacher Himmelreich Spatlese is clear, intense and flinty on the nose, very precise but well concentrated; however, it is the most reductive of the Spatlese quartet. Round and piquant, with a stimulating fruit and salinity, this is a very well-defined, crystalline and straight Spatlese of great finesse and elegance. It needs five years or so to unfold all its talents, but it can surely age for 20 or 30 years. Apr 2017, www.robertparker.com