1988 Yquem

Lots of of beeswax, botrytis spice and honey, with hints of toffee. Full-bodied, very sweet, thick and layered. Caramel, toffee, spice. Molasses too. Very, very powerful. Muscular and rich. Fabulous Sauternes. Nothing comes close in this vintage.—'88/'98 Bordeaux blind retrospective (2008). Drink now. 6,500 cases made. James Suckling, winespectator.com

The 1988 Chateau d'Yquem has long been an insider's favorite over the 1989 and 1990, although at the end of the day, all three form a brilliant triumvirate at the end of the decade. Tasted from a half bottle, it shone with a slightly burnished amber hue. The bouquet is just as I have encountered with previous bottles with scents of marmalade, mandarin, burnt honey and citrus fruit, perhaps a little waxier and resinous than I recall. The palate is medium-bodied with impressive weight, viscous as you would expect, though not as flamboyant as the 1989 or as unctuous as the 1990. It is beautifully balanced with notes of apricot, white chocolate and orange peel towards the harmonious and tensile finish. You can see this cruising along for two or three decades and maybe it will turn more Barsac-like in style? Time will tell - a glorious Yquem however you look at it. Tasted May 2016. Jun 2016, www.robertparker.com

Dark tawny. The most uintriging nose Glossy and lively and more intellectual than the other two, Extremely long - a hint of ginger and real zest. Certainly seemed the best of these three without a doubt. Very racy and flirtatious – maybe racier than the 1989. Powerful and very very long. Jancis Robinson, jancisrobinson.com