1997 Lafite Rothschild

Tasted blind as a vintage comparison at the Valandraud vertical, the 1997 Lafite-Rothschild appears to be a wine that sparkled in its youth, but is not maturing with the grace and style of other vintages after almost 20 years. It has a well-defined bouquet with crushed strawberry, wet sand and light tobacco notes that gradually unfurl. I appreciate the precision here - typical Lafite-Rothschild. The palate is medium-bodied with a gentle grip on the entry, a little foursquare with some dryness towards the attenuated finish. It feels bound together by the fine thread of acidity, yet the long and short of it is that while its descent will be gradual, it will not repay continued bottle ageing. Tasted December 2016. Mar 2017, www.robertparker.com

This for me was the most 'Lafite' wine of the evening, and showed none of the weakness of some 1997s. Amazingly deep ruby. Lift and race. Real racehorse thoroughbred qualities. That lovely Lafite ballerina thing - all charm without any weakeness. Long with just a hint of gunpowder. Just lovely: complete and long. Clever old dining-club committee bought it in 2002 for just £53 a bottle when it would cost £700 a bottle to replace it now. Jancis Robinson, jancisrobinson.com

Only 26% of the crop made it into the final blend, resulting in only 15,000 cases of the 1997 Lafite-Rothschild. Readers should not ignore this wine because of the negative press surrounding the 1997 vintage. It boasts an opaque dense purple color in addition to a gorgeously sweet, expansive perfume of cedar wood, black currants, lead pencil, and minerals. What follows is a fat mid-palate, medium body, explosive fruit and richness, soft tannin, and a velvety texture. It is a beautiful, compelling Lafite-Rothschild that can be drunk young, yet promises to evolve for 15+ years. Although one of the most forward Lafites ever tasted, it is all the more captivating because of this characteristic. Don't miss it! Wine Advocate.April, 2000