1978 Lafite Rothschild

This wine is distinctively herbaceous and cedary, with surprisingly high acidity, and aggressive tannin in the finish. Its medium garnet color and smoky, roasted herb-scented nose are followed by a wine with good fruit on the attack, but an angular, sharp finish. The wine appears to be closer to full maturity than its younger sibling, the 1979. Anticipated maturity: Now-2010. Last tasted 10/97 Jan 1998, www.robertparker.com

The 1978 gathers force over the palate, and this is a gorgeous Lafite that is still full of pleasure. Showcases elegant, finessed tannins, with fragrant tobacco leaf, tumeric, smoke, black tea, wild strawberry and raspberry - basically a window into why this wine manages to hold such a grip on the imagination through its mix of concentration and elegance. Salivating, a wine to stretch out with over a long conversation, taking your time, enjoying the subtley and the freshness. Fully in its tertiary window, but it will stay on this easy-going plateau for another few decades. Low yields of 22.85hl/h, after a mixed summer but excellent late harvest, with the grapes coming in from October 2. New oak was inching upwards at this point from the 30% earlier in the 1970s, probably at this point somewhere around 50%.