2014 Chassagne Montrachet Morgeot

Burgundy is where my career and passion for fine wine truly started. In 2008, having just started working at the cellar door for a small négociant in Chambolle-Musigny, I was given a copy of ‘The Wines of Burgundy’ by Sylvain Pitiot and told that if I wanted to stay, I needed to learn the different village names, their various terroirs, the recent vintage conditions and, most importantly, how all of these factors translated into subtle differences of flavour in the finished wines. It helped that there was a constant supply of open bottles. Whilst I have spent time living and working in other wine regions, and enjoy discovering and drinking wines from across the globe, I always return to the Cote d’Or. The undisputed home of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, the world’s most expensive and sought after wines are made here. The best bottles in my own modest collection are red and white Burgundy, and the glorious sunshine here in London during the recent bank holiday weekend prompted me to open one. A 2014 Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot from Leroy – as one of the best vintages for white Burgundy of the last two decades and one of the region’s most prestigious names, expectations were high. Fortunately, as is so often the case with Leroy, I have yet to try a bottle of this which is anything less than superb. Truly beautiful aromas of white flowers, fresh nectarine and orchard fruits, with flinty minerality and just a hint of hazelnut in the background – a level of subtlety and finesse which is impossible to put into words. Deceptively elegant at first on the palate, the energy and intensity gradually builds, with multiple layers of flavour, eventually relaxing into a long finish full of texture and depth. Delicious on its own, outstanding when paired with fresh seafood, this is drinking beautifully now – and as with all Leroy wines, if stored correctly it will age well for many years to come. An exceptional Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru. Intense and bright nose which leads into an elegant palate which is initially fresh and leads on to ripe white orchard fruit, peach and multi-layered depth. It is 2014 in a glass: not even a hint of over-ripeness, with plenty of perfume; hints of yellow apple fruit and hazelnut praline flavours give this wine its edge. Superbly textured wine which coats the palate yet remains fresh with a long length and overall finesse that gives an almost ethereal delicacy. This really is an excellent wine. Terroir and vintage combine here to show off white burgundy at the top of its game.