Clos Manou

Clos Manou is one of Bordeaux’s most under-rated addresses. The tiny estate is in the northern reaches of the Médoc, but produces wine that puts some Classed Growths to shame.

Stéphane Dief founded the estate in 1998, starting with a mere 0.12 hectares, beyond Saint-Estèphe in Saint-Christoly-Médoc. He has gradually acquired vineyard parcels, now having 18.5 hectares in total – from which he produces one of Bordeaux’s best-value wines.

All the work is done by Stéphane and his wife, Françoise, by hand, with the vines farmed organically (although not certified), avoiding herbicides and pesticides. The vineyards are all high density (around 10,000 vines/ha) and Dief favours massal selection for re-planting. Some of the vines are particularly old, pre-dating phylloxera.

Each plot is vinified separately, with fermentation and maturation in a combination of oak, concrete and amphora (the latter two vessel types introduced from 2013 and 2017, respectively). As is increasingly fashionable, extraction is gentle and new oak is used sensitively.

The blend varies according to the vintage, with Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon often close in proportion, complemented by small percentages of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. The wines are now all bottled under ArdeaSeal – a technical cork used by the likes of Laurent Ponsot (for more consistent oxygen exchange and zero cork taint).

Alongside the eponymous Grand Vin, the property produces a second wine called Petit Manou and in certain vintages they also produce Cuvée 1850. Made with the estate’s oldest, pre-phylloxera vines, just 50 cases are produced when it is made, making it extremely rare. Recent vintages include 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2018, 2020, 2021 and 2022. The critics have started recognising this property for its incredible value, with Neal Martin and Jane Anson consistently rating the wines highly, and William Kelley writing, “This estate merits a mention in any list of Bordeaux’s finest under-the-radar producers.”

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