Giacomo Borgogno & Figli

The most famous of the various (and unrelated) Borgogno estates in the Langhe, Giacomo Borgogno & Figli was founded by Bartolomeo Borgogno in 1761, making it the oldest producer in the region. A century later, the wine was poured at a feast celebrating Italy’s unification – indicating how established this address rapidly became. 

The modern history of the property starts in 1920, under Cesare Borgogno who was the first to distribute the wines around Italy and the world. He was also the first to start setting aside bottles of their Barolo Riserva for later consumption, with 20,000 bottles of each vintage (around half of the production) tucked away, intended for release 20 years down the line. Then known simply as “Borgogno”, the estate’s name changed in 1967 after the French authorities sued them for the use of name so close to that of their treasured Burgundy (or Bourgogne in French), becoming Giacomo Borgogno & Figli.  

Cesare Borgogno passed away in 1968, passing the property to his granddaughter Isa and her future husband, Franco Boschis. The couple’s sons Cesare and Giorgio joined the business in 1984 and later took over. Oscar Farinetti – the founder of Eataly and a Langhe native – bought Giacomo Borgogno & Figli in late 2007, marking the start of a new era for the estate. 

While the takeover provided much-needed investment, the focus has remained firmly on continuing Borgogno’s traditional legacy. Brothers Cesare and Giorgi remained involved until 2009, with Oscar Farinetti’s son Andrea then taking the reins, aged just 20 and fresh out of oenological school. They started renovations, made the estate’s first white wine (the Era Ora Riesling) in 2012, and from 2013 returned to using exclusively spontaneous ferments in cement vats. 

From 2015, they started converting the property to organic farming and bought three hectares in Tortona, which Farinetti planted to Timorasso. They restored the cellar in 2016 and bought 11 further hectares in Madonna di Como, near Alba. By 2020 the vineyards were all certified organic and they bought another five hectares of Timorasso in Valbona. 

Today the estate consists of almost 51 hectares in total, eight of which are woodland, with the remainder under vine. The majority (around 60%) is dedicated to Nebbiolo, with plots in several prestigious Crus: 6.75 hectares in Lite, 1.3 in Cannubi, 3.2 in Fossati and four in San Pietro delle Viole. There is a small amount of Dolcetto, Barbera and Freisa, with 7.5 hectares of Timorasso and 1.5 of Riesling. 

The property is archly traditional, with long macerations of up to three months for Nebbiolo, exclusive use of cement for fermentation and large Slavonian oak casks for the extended maturation. For a long time, Borgogno made only a blended Barolo – as is favoured by the traditionalists, however they introduced single-Cru wines from Fossati, Liste and Cannubi, with the latter two both as “straight” Barolo and Riserva bottlings, complementing the blended Barolo and Barolo Riserva. 

Beyond Barolo, the range is extensive, with a Langhe Freisa, Bartomè (a Langhe Nebbiolo), Ancum (a Langhe Dolcetto), Bompè (a Langhe Barbera), two Timorasso bottlings (Derthona and Derthona Scaldapulce), the Era Ora Riesling, as well as Grappa, Barolo Chinato and Vermouth. They also produce the very rare and limited-production cuvée, Selezione Cesare, a blend of three Barolo vintages, spread across four decades, in the style of Vega Sicilia’s Reserva Especial or Penfolds G3. 

Courtesy of Cesare Borgogno’s decision to start laying down stock in the 1920s, Borgogno has one of the region’s most extensive libraries of back-vintages. The property continues to put aside significant volumes for late release. As of 2023, the estate started releasing some wine via La Place de Bordeaux, with mixed cases of its prestigious Liste and Cannubi Riserva offered to clients around the world. 

The property remains one of the most respected in the region, crafting fine and age-worthy Barolo that is sought after by collectors.

NB The property is not related to the three other Borgognos in the region: Fratelli Serio & Battista Borgogno, Francesco Borgogno or Virna Borgogno.