Domaine des Comtes Lafon

Based in Meursault, the domaine was established by Jules Lafon after marrying Marie Boch in 1894. The Boch family had several vineyard parcels and a cellar at Clos de la Barre (built in 1869), which Lafon added to, buying several vineyards in Meursault and Volnay in the early 20th century, including a plot of Meursault in 1919 (having been made a count, or “comte” in 1918). 

Jules Lafon was a lawyer by trade until 1931, when he gave up his post to devote his time to winemaking. As mayor of Meursault, Lafon initiated the restoring of the traditional meal held at the end of the harvest, bringing together the workers and owners of the village’s domaines. He invited 35 of his friends to a small banquet and the Paulée de MeursauIt was born – an event that has continued ever since and today attracts 100s of wine enthusiasts from all over the world. 

When Jules Lafon died in 1940, the estate entered a period of crisis. His son Pierre died four years later, and the other two Henri and René were in dispute over the estate, and it was nearly sold in 1955. Many of the vineyards were leased out to tenant farmers during this time, but René Lafon regained control in 1956 and gave the estate its current name, Domaine des Comtes Lafon. The property started bottling all its wines itself in 1961.  

It was, however, under René’s son (Jules Lafon’s grandson) Dominique Lafon that the domaine’s reputation really rose to prominence, after he took over in 1987. He brought more of the vineyards back under the domaine’s control and by 1993 all 13.8 hectares were again farmed by the estate.  

Dominique Lafon was one of the pioneers of organic and biodynamic farming in the region, gaining organic certification in 1995, converting fully to biodynamics by 1998. After 37 years at the helm, Dominique Lafon retired in 2021. Today the estate is managed by his daughter Léa and his nephew Pierre. 

The top wine of Domaine des Comtes Lafon is their rare Montrachet Grand Cru, coming from just 32 ares of vines situated in the southernmost corner of Le Montrachet, neighbouring Blanchot Dessus.  

The domaine produces six Meursault Premiers Crus – Les Bouchères, Charmes, Genevrières, Goutte d’Or, Perrières and Le Porusot as well as four village Meursault bottlings. These are Clos de la Barre, Clos de la Baronne (which is a clos within the climat of Les Meix Gagnes), Désirée and a straight Meursault, which is a blend of parcels from En la Barre, En Luraule, Les Crotots and Clos de le Baronne, as well as fruit from the young vines in their Premier Cru sites. 

The top Pinot Noir of the estate is their Volnay Premier Cru Les Santenots du Milieu. The domaine also produces Volnay Premiers Crus from Champans, Clos des Chênes and a Monthélie Premier Cru, Les Duresses, as well as a village Volnay and a white Monthélie. 

In the vineyards, de-budding is carried out in spring and vine shoots are positioned by hand, typically during three separate passes through the vineyard – a method that avoids any crowding of the vegetation. All the vines are hand harvested and fruit is sorted in the vineyard then again on reception at the domaine. 

The Chardonnay undergoes long, slow (typically three hours), gentle pressing using a pneumatic press. The must is then settled for 24 hours before being transferred to barrels for fermentation. The wine undergoes wild fermentation and will be left in barrel until the following July when it is racked and returned to barrel to be aged on its fine lees. Depending on the cuvée, the wines spend 18-22 months in oak. A second racking is carried out prior to bottling, as well as a light fining. 

The Pinot Noir is typically made from 100% destemmed fruit that is chilled down to 12-15˚C on reception to the winery. Fermentation starts naturally after a four to six-day maceration and the wine is kept on skins for a total of 15-20 days before pressing. All the press wine is immediately added to the blend. The wines are aged in oak for 18-22 months, with typically a third new, depending on the cuvée.