2013 Chambolle Musigny Les Amoureuses

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Average Score 93.67

This is notably more restrained with its elegant and cool if grudging nose that is composed of a wonderfully spicy mélange of both red and blue pinot fruit, wet stone, tangerine peel and Asian style tea. There is an ultra-refined and strikingly pure palate feel to the intense and stony medium-bodied flavors where the supporting tannins are dense but fine and this sense of refinement continues onto the succulent, silky and hugely long finish. This is positively crystalline in its purity and this is an absolute knockout. Jan 2016,, Drink: 2025+
The 2013 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru les Amoureuses took a while to “warm up” in the glass, but when it does it reveals gorgeous scents of blackberry, black plum, wild hedgerow and black slate scents. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, supple tannins stuck through with a keen line of acidity. There is moderate depth here. It does not fan out like the 2012 last year, but remains true and linear with a pinch of black pepper adorning the finish. Regal. ||As Chambolle’s church clock chimed nine, I opened the door to winemaker François Millet’s office. I think he was quietly impressed by my punctuality. Together we trooped down to his cellar to taste through the 2013s and also the bottled 2012s, the latter destined for a future report. Millet’s oratory is always one of the philosophical highlights of my visits. He could do a TED talk on winemaking. “There was a lot of coulure and flowering took a long time,” he began, “The old vines had a lot of millerandage. The summer was good, but September had a sub-tropical climate and with storms and botrytis forthcoming we decided not to wait. So we picked on 5 October and it was in 1987 that we last picked in that month. We finished the harvest on 13 October. I like the freshness and mineralité of the vintage. There is very nice skin ripeness. The color is nothing to do with more extraction; it comes from the ripeness of the skins. The extraction was even more cautious than usual, given the amount of juice. There was some chaptalization to preserve the clarity and purity of the vintage, so that we are around “a good twelve” in terms of alcohol. The malolactic were a little later than usual. I always try to postpone the malo in the spring by transferring the wine upstairs, but the ‘kinetic’ of the malo was slower than usual and it preserved the freshness – so slow and so sure. The fruit is sweet enough to balance the high mineralité of the vintage. You cannot hide anything in this vintage. It is so transparent. It is a vintage that takes you to the limits of what we can manage.” ||As I have mentioned in recent reports, I like the direction this historic and illustrious domaine is going. I see less of the winemaking and more of the terroir articulated in the glass, letting the “dirt” do the talking. But Burgundy is never straightforward and as I commented at the time, the Bonnes-Mares almost resembles the Musigny Vieilles Vignes: less opulent and flamboyant than in other vintage that with that trademark blueberry notes intact. François compared them to a diver entering perfectly cool dark water vertically and without a ripple. Maybe. I would compare them to Southend Pier. It takes a long time to walk down in a perfectly straight line and you are not quite sure what lies at the end of its 1¼-mile stretch. Yet there is no choice. You have to be in for the long haul. There is no turning back halfway down just to spend the rest of the afternoon playing the slot machines. No, you must persevere despite the biting cold of the Thames Estuary and the annoying seagulls squawking overhead.||These 2013s are worthy follow-ups to the stupendous 2012s even if they are cut from a different cloth: not as concentrated and without the same level of ambition. Nevertheless, Millet said that he feared the freshness might fool drinkers into opening them early and I concur: these are wines that deserve several years in bottle. They are linear, precise, occasionally standoffish but they are imbued with fearless authority without the expense of charm.|, 2014
Brilliant dark red. Slightly reduced aromas of medicinal black cherry, blackberry, cocoa powder and crushed stone. Vibrant and fine-grained, with strong saline minerality contributing to the impression of inner-mouth tension. Finishes very long, with serious but ripe tannins and terrific limestone grip. This very refined wine is built for a slow evolution in bottle. Jan 2015,, Drink: 2033-2035

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